To be or not to be

Reading’s long-standing fight for city status reflects a community breaking free from commuter belt homogeneity. Robyn Gilmour speaks to Double-Barrelled, a brewery that is living this transformation.

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Every royal jubilee year, the reigning monarch can award city status to a select number of UK towns. For Reading, 2021 marked a fourth failed application for the converted title at which point it became the largest town in the UK. In 2000, it lost out to Brighton, Inverness and '''/Wolverhampton, which were awarded city status in celebration of the new millennium. In 2002, for Queen Elizabeth II’s Golden Jubilee, Preston, Stirling, Newport, Lisburn and Newry were awarded city status. In 2012, for the diamond jubilee, Perth, Chelmsford and St Asaph became cities. Most recently, in 2022 for her platinum jubilee, Reading lost out to Milton Keynes, Dunfermline, Bangor, and Wrexham.

“People complain because there’s no bowling alley,” says Double-Barrelled co-founder, Luci Clayton-Jones. “We’re one of those towns that, yes, has a big shopping centre, and yes, a couple of main streets full of high street chains, but you just need to look past that to find a really amazing food and drink community, lots of interesting things going on, and heaps of development and investment. We've got really good access links to London, and I think because of that a lot of people see Reading as a soulless commuter town. My husband and I have been in Reading for 12 years, and used to go up to London quite a lot, but now there's no need. There’s enough going on here.”

“Enough going on” doesn’t quite do justice to the intensity of operations at Double-Barrelled, which celebrated its sixth birthday in 2024. “You see someone come into the taproom who's pregnant, and before you know it, they’re dropping by with their six year-old to wish you a happy birthday,” says Luci. “You get to see that because you're someone's local, and you’re part of their life experience. We’ve had stag and hen parties come in, then hosted weddings here. It has just become so much more than we could have ever anticipated, and you're just like, ‘oh, God, actually, there's a reason we're fighting for this’. When I'm stuck in spreadsheets, wondering how it's all going to work, I don't always see that we’re doing something bigger than just a business.”

Reading, UK (PHOTO: Marco Zuppone)

When Mike and Luci first arrived in Reading, the town lacked the kind of venues they wanted to drink in. Sure, they had the incredible Nags Head, and The Fox and Hounds in Caversham — two truly brilliant pubs, by anyone’s measure — and while Siren’s taproom wasn’t quite up and running, Mike and Luci frequented the brewery’s then on-site bottle shop, a 26-minute drive outside of Reading, and credit Siren as the instigator behind the development of Reading’s craft beer scene. “I think they led the way locally to sort of show people what great cask and great keg could be,” says Luci. 

“We set up Double-Barrelled in 2018, and at the same time opened our taproom concept in Reading town centre. Because a lot of people worked in London, a lot of Reading residents were used to seeing that London craft beer scene, they’d been to the Bermondsey Beer Mile, they were familiar with Beavertown. Reading was crying out for a taproom scene of its own, so people didn’t have to go all the way to London to experience that. When we started DB, that’s what we wanted to create; somewhere we wanted to drink, essentially.”

Luci describes the day they opened as “the most bonkers day ever”. A queue of 80-odd people had formed outside the taproom prior to opening, a crowd Mike and Luci were equally excited and terrified to contend with between just the two of them. “Obviously my stress levels were through the roof, but at the same time, the crowd just showed that people were so excited about the concept and what we were trying to bring to it,” she says. “To have a place like that as full as we were on a cold January day was just brilliant. I think for us, the people of Reading and the support we've had from Reading got us through lockdown. People really wanted to support their local breweries. They understood the value that a community-led brewery brings to a place, and we're really grateful for that.”

PHOTO: Luci & Mike, the founders

The year after Double-Barrelled opened its doors, Phantom Brewery followed suit with a similar concept, and has only recently taken on the unit next door to its original site as additional, dedicated taproom space. Elusive Brewing, also in Finchampstead, is a little older than Double-Barrelled, but has really found a strong stride in recent years. In 2024, Siren opened a substantial town center bar in Reading, another sure sign that the town is somewhere beer and breweries are growing into, and investing in. Luci says that this is, in part, thanks to Reading’s food scene. 

“Restaurants and food vendors have been really supportive of their local breweries as well, which is really cool. There's a well known Indian restaurant called Clay’s in Reading, and has been sort of heralded as some of the best Indian food in the country by lots of food writers [Grace Dent, Jay Reyner, and Tom Parker Bowles to name a few]. They have our beer on, they have Siren’s beer on, they’ve done food and beer pairing and other events like that. That’s pretty amazing, as far as I'm concerned.”

Luci continues to say that Reading itself is growing quite substantially. “There’s a lot of flats under development, probably in part because we’re on the Elizabeth line now, so we’re officially a part of the tube map. I've certainly seen a younger demographic coming into Reading, and recently, it’s felt like quite an up and coming place, it just naeeds a bit of time. There's a lot of great projects in place, we’re getting loads more investment funneled into our theaters and our libraries, which, I don’t think is happening in many places these days. So, more than anything, I just want people to be patient.”

In imploring people to hang tight, and stick with Reading as it comes into its own, there is a deep, forgiving, almost familial love in the way Luci talks about Double-Barrelled's home. Just as the town has supported the brewery, the brewery is sticking by its town, and willing it into whatever form it will take next.

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